The plants require little maintenance but flower profusely in season. Encouraging the most flowers and the healthiest stems results in the most attractive cutting lilies. Select oriental lilies Lilium orientalis for fragrant cut flowers or choose Asiatic varieties Lilium asiatic if you don't require a fragrance but prefer high flower production.
Short varieties that grow only 2 or 3 feet tall produce straighter stems, but taller 5-foot varieties provide longer stems for arranging. Plant lily bulbs in well-drained soil in a bed that receives about six hours of sunlight for best flowering. Space the bulbs 4 inches apart in all directions. Close spacing encourages straighter stem growth and helps prevent the plants from falling over. Water lilies approximately once weekly and supply enough moisture at each watering to moisten the top 6 inches of soil.
Water with a bloom-boosting soluble fertilizer, applied at the package recommended rate, once monthly during the growing season to encourage healthy flowering. Place a circular hoop stake over tall lily varieties when they are about 12 inches tall to help keep the plants upright and stems straight. Circular stakes feature a round hoop supported by three legs.
Push the legs 2 or 3 inches into the ground to anchor it. Keep reading to learn how you can get the job done with confidence. Heading cuts remove only part of a shoot or limb and encourage side branching and dense growth. The cut should be made just beyond a healthy bud, angled at 45 degrees and facing away from the bud. Note that new shoots will grow in the direction the bud is pointing.
Young shrubs should be pruned lightly to make them grow fuller and bushier. With hand pruners, trim long, unbranched stems by cutting just above a healthy bud. This type of pruning, called heading, encourages lower side branches to develop and enhances the shrub's natural form. When selecting a bud tip to trim to, keep in mind that the new branch will grow out in the direction of the bud. Like most pruning, heading cuts should be timed to avoid disrupting the plant's flowering.
As a shrub develops, thin out old, weak, rubbing, or wayward branches where they merge with another branch. This opens up the middle of the plant to more sunlight, which keeps interior branches healthy, stimulates growth, and increases flowering. Thinning cuts remove an entire branch where it meets another limb, the main stem, or the ground.
They should be made as close to this junction as possible.
These cuts help maintain the plant's natural shape, limit its size, and open up the interior branches to light and air. Older shrubs that have become a tangle of unproductive stems may require a more extensive program of thinning cuts, called renewal or renovation pruning, that takes at least three years. On shrubs with multiple stems that grow up from the base, like lilac, viburnum, forsythia, and dogwood, gradually remove all of the old stems while leaving the new, flower-producing growth untouched.
Eventually, the new flower-producing stems will completely replace the lackluster old growth. Neglected shrubs may call for a more drastic approach: hard pruning. Most deciduous shrubs that respond well to renewal pruning can also take hard pruning, as will a handful of broadleaf evergreens, such as privet. Using loppers and a pruning saw, cut back all stems to within an inch of the ground during the plant's winter dormancy. For more on the correct tools to use, see Choosing and Using Pruners and Loppers Come spring, the plants will quickly produce new shoots from the base.
Of course, this technique will leave you with little to look at while waiting for the new growth.
Remove one-third of the plant's stems, cutting at the base. This opens up its interior to air and sunlight and encourages new branch and leaf growth. Avoid pruning a young or newly planted tree — it needs as many leaves as possible to produce the food required for good root growth. Remove only dead, broken, or injured branches, as well as those that cross or rub each other.
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And always prune back to a healthy stem or branch without leaving stubs. This eliminates hiding places for pests and diseases, and looks better. Never cut back the plant's leader — the top-most growing point of the tree — which is vital to letting the tree develop its natural form. What to Prune from a Tree A. Suckers that grow from the roots or base of the trunk B.
Limbs that sag or grow close to the ground C. Branches that form an acute angle with the trunk D. Watersprouts that shoot up from main "scaffold" branches E.
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Limbs that are dead, diseased, or broken F. Branches that grow parallel to and too close to another G. Branches that cross or rub against others H. Limbs that compete with the tree's central leader. Once the tree is a few years old, shape it gradually over the course of several years to maximize foliage and flowering. Auteur: Georgie Newbery.
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Uitgever: Green Books. Samenvatting ''I love this book - it's a beautiful yet practical and accessible guide that will help you transform whatever sized patch you have into an abundant oasis of flowers. Grow your own cut flowers and you can fill your house with the gorgeous colours and heavenly scents of your favourite blooms, knowing that they haven't travelled thousands of miles - and you can make money while you do it!
Whether you want to grow for your own pleasure or start your own business, The Flower Farmer's Year is the perfect guide. Toon meer Toon minder.
Recensie s Georgie Newbery gives sound and cheery advice on growing, displaying and - if that is your bag - selling [flowers] in The Flower Farmer's Year. A must for the flower lover in your life! And if you'd simply like to grow flowers for pleasure, then I'm sure you'll really enjoy the book too.
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- Maureen Little;
Plus it would make a great Christmas present!
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